Q:
Is it ok to go past my mileage on an oil change?
A:
Ah, that age old ticking time bomb known as “the miles past your oil change”. You look at the sticker on the inside of your windshield and literally count the miles you have put on BEYOND the recommended change interval, wondering when implosion, explosion or some type of major detonation will occur.
The good news is that for the most part, going beyond within reason, isn’t the “death knell” for your engine.
Motor oil by design, lubricates moving parts in most all internal combustion engines and helps minimize the friction between these internal parts (which causes wear). Motor oil creates a slippery "film" that prevents direct contact with these parts and helps prevent abnormal friction, higher heat and increased wear, as the engine is operated.
Now, the rubbing of the parts together, even aided by the film the oil provides, still produces wear and even microscopic metal fragments that are picked up by the oil filter and oil pan. Plus, the heat and hard work of the internal parts causes the oil to become dirty and “thicker” since the additives break down over hard usage and time, thus reducing the oil's effectiveness at keeping things “slippery.”
Here is where it gets good: Fragments in the oil pan, potential sludge, heighten operating temperatures in the engine, lower RPMs, increased fuel consumption and of course, cause potential engine failure.
These are all BAD things that can come from ignoring that sticker and postponing your oil change.
The type of miles you have driven since your last oil change - distance driven, type of trips taken, number of cold starts, etc. - still remains the BEST indicator of when oil should be changed.
Luckily, today’s advanced vehicles have the technology to take all these things into account and then some, in order to trigger the “idiot light” on your dash and remind you that it's “time." But for some of us, the oil change sticker from the dealer, “quick lube” or reputable local shop are still reliable reminders.
Try not to go thousands of miles past the interval and most “experts” say that you will be ok. But I don’t recommend bending the rule, because in the end… a complete engine repair or replacement expense is far more more costly than a simple oil change.
Don’t you agree?
Editor's Note: Blain Boudreau is a 20 year veteran of the auto industry with a vast array of "car guy" knowledge. Have an auto question for Blain? Email Andy.Ambrosius@patch.com.
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Why do we try to postpone the inevitable when it comes to SIMPLE car maintenance? Changing your oil is CHEAP insurance to help protect you car -- COMPARED to the option of having a blown engine. Lloyd Pro Group | Nationwide Insurance 2980 Cobb Parkway Southeast #172, Atlanta, GA 30339 (404) 892-2864 (404) 892-2572 (Fax) http://wwww.lloydprogroup.com http://atlantainsurance.com/atlanta-auto-insurance.html
Substituting a 10W for a 5W MAY cause spikes in the initial oil pressure at cold start shearing oil pump drives or belts. The oil may also flow more slowly through the clearances taking longer to reach the ends of galleries or chains of moving parts, causing extra wear on those parts farthest from the pump. I understand the "more is better" engine-oil theory, but it is most often wrong. High-mileage cars with increased clearances caused by wear may tolerate "heavier" oils, like the one step from 5W to 10W, but the average owner will never know whether the clearances are sufficient to make the "heavier" oil the best oil for the application. If you experience no knocking on cold start, and the oil pressure light goes out or the gauge moves to the "normal" range, stick with the oil specified by the engine manufacturer. An aside: Tom Kamenick suggested you "[...] can also go by the dashboard light [...]". Not a good idea. If the light is on, or the gauge indicates low, the oil pressure is too low to protect your engine. DO NOT run the engine. (It is possible some very new cars have an engine-oil condition indicator; check your manual to determine whether your light serves that function also.)
It works on a Sub Micron filtering concept using a toilette paper roll inside the Filter Canister. I change the Toilette paper roll once a month and add one quart of new oil to the Motor. You can buy the pre made rolls at any Frantz Oil Filter distributor or online. However you can just buy a case of Commercial Toilette paper that is "TWO PLY" and "500 sheets per roll". The new complete Filter units are a bit "Pricey", however I feel they are worth the price, when you consider the level of protection to your motor. I have even seen the filters installed to The Transmission, and the Fuel lines. One unit I had installed to my Isuzu I mark Diesel car both on the Motor Oil system and also to the Diesel Fuel system. that was when the Fuel Prices were high in the US and I would go to Mexico to buy Diesel fuel there as it was cheaper. I also had two extra ten gallon saddle tanks mounted in the trunk. So I would get thirty gallons of Diesel Fuel at a time. I never had a problem with my Diesel Injectors although many others I know said the Diesel fuel had significant sediment in it. I never had a problem as I had my Frantz Filter on the Fuel as well. So, there were many great ideas in the above comments. Do anything that works, just do SOMETHING!
The manual for my electric car does not recommend any oil changes. ;)
The local sales and repair shop wanted me to buy the same motor from them. Glad I made an effort to contact Kohler, and will likely buy their products going forward.